Shredding: Riding with Power

Forget complex logs; just note one highlight and one “work-on” after each surf. Maybe you finally felt that rail bite on a cutback, but you kept missing the peak. A quick voice memo or a note in your phone does the trick. Over time, you’ll see patterns—like your backside getting stronger or your paddle stamina improving. This simple reflection keeps you honest and stoked on the journey without the pressure of a scorecard. It’s about feeling the progression, not just measuring it.

Start by keeping it simple and specific, not just “get better.“ Think about one thing you want to lock in each session, like nailing your bottom turn or reading the sections faster. Maybe it’s committing to take off on a set wave that spooks you. By focusing on a single, actionable intention, you’ll channel your energy and actually notice your progression. It’s about quality, not quantity. Paddle out with that one goal in mind and let everything else flow from there.

It begins with your eyes and your bottom turn. Stop looking at your feet and start looking down the line where you want to go. Generate speed by driving hard off that first bottom turn, using your rail, not just skidding your tail. This sets you up for the rest of the section. Practice connecting two maneuvers, like a bottom turn into a top turn. It’s about linking the dance moves together with flow and power, not just doing a single trick.

Listen to that little voice—if something feels off, it probably is. Know your absolute limits and respect them; there’s no shame in sitting on the beach. Always warm up, check the conditions thoroughly, and never paddle out alone in heavy stuff. Pushing limits is about incremental steps, not reckless leaps. A calculated risk on a slightly bigger day with your crew is progression; paddling out in double-overhead chaos without the skills is just dangerous. Live to surf another day, always.