All Articles

The Art of Persistence: How Layne Beachley Surfed Through the Boneyard

Chasing the Endless Summer: Essential Travel Tips for the Modern Nomad

Catching the Ghost in the Machine: The Soul of a US Surf Road Trip

The Alaia Revolution: The Forgotten Soul of Surfing

The Drop: Finding the Slot and Committing to the Barrel

Bethany Hamilton and the Art of the Comeback

The Groundswell: Why It Makes Every Surfer Froth

The Deepest Shove: How to Navigate the Compression and Find the Light Inside the Barrel

The Dawn Patrol: Why Waking Up Before the Sun is the Ultimate Surfer’s Choice

Salt, Sweat, and Serotonin: The Electrolyte Alchemy of a Proper Surf Session

The Stretch and the Seal: Why Your Wetsuit is More Than Just a Neoprene Skin

The Pulse of the Atlantic: Chasing Swells on Dingle’s Wild Coast

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Surf Gear Essentials

Rinse it with fresh water after every session, especially if you’ve been in salt or chlorinated pools. Dry it inside out in the shade—never on a hot line in direct sun. Store it on a thick, wide hanger. Avoid sitting on the tailgate in it, as that stresses the neoprene. A little care goes a long way; treat your rubber right and it’ll keep you stoked for years.

For your first mission, stick to the friendly vibes of Guanacaste. Tamarindo and Playa Grande offer mellow beach breaks perfect for finding your feet. Nosara is a bit more of a trek but has super consistent waves and a killer yoga-surf scene. These spots have plenty of board rentals, surf schools, and other kooks to share the lineup with. You’ll get heaps of waves, improve your technique, and soak up that easygoing Tico culture without getting in over your head.

It’s the ultimate call to courage in surfing culture. The phrase was born during the 1978 World Surfing Championships at Sunset Beach when conditions were massive and dangerous. Competitors were hesitant, but everyone knew Eddie would have already been out there. It transcends surfing now, meaning to step up when things get gnarly, to face fear with commitment, and to always have your crew’s back. It’s a mindset of pure, unwavering commitment to the challenge, no matter how heavy it gets.

Surf Icons & Heroes

In a word? No. His combination of otherworldly talent, obsessive dedication, and decades of experience is unique. You can study his technique—his bottom turn, his barrel stance, his snap—and definitely improve your own surfing by aiming for that flow and efficiency. But his wave sense, competitive fire, and innate ability to make critical sections are gifts. The best takeaway is his mindset: respect for the ocean, constant progression, and pure stoke for the ride. Chase your own best waves and style; that’s the real tribute to the King.

Pump, baby, pump! It’s all about the kinetic energy. Generate speed by compressing and extending your legs as you move along the wave face, like a skateboarder in a half-pipe. Use the wave’s curve—pump on the bottom, unload at the top. The key is staying on the “highway” of the wave, that sweet spot where it’s steepest. Trimming properly on your rail before the carve also keeps your velocity up so you can really attack the section.

It’s about understanding the ocean’s rhythm. You’re watching the sets, identifying the peak—where the wave starts to break first. You note the currents, the wind, and where other surfers are sitting. It’s seeing which waves are makeable and which are closeouts. This knowledge tells you where to paddle to be in the best position. It’s not just looking; it’s analyzing. A good read saves energy and gets you more waves.