All Articles

The Flex Factor: Why Your Fins Should Bend

The Art of the Inducement: Setting Up for an Aerial

The Green Room: A Surfer’s Sanctuary and the Ultimate Score

Pipe Dreams: The Science and Soul of Sunset Beach’s Next-Gen Chargers

The Kapu of the Wave: How Ancient Hawaiian Law Shaped the Birth of Surfing

The Silent Sunrise at a Private Maldives Atoll

Stoke and the Flow State: The Surfer’s Nirvana

The Frothing Factor: Why the Right Point Break is the Ultimate Stoke Machine

The Art of the Surfari: Living the Endless Summer on the Road

The Power of the Delay: Why Waiting Wins the Wave

Eating Like the Ocean: Fuel for the Long Paddle

The Zen of Minimalist Surf Packing: Less Gear, More Waves

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Surf Icons & Heroes

Bethany has absolutely charged some of the planet’s heaviest slabs. She’s a regular in the punishing surf of Pipeline on Oahu’s North Shore, taking on those thick, hollow barrels. She’s also tackled Teahupo’o in Tahiti, one of the world’s most powerful and dangerous waves. Charging these spots requires next-level wave knowledge, commitment, and guts—all things she has in spades. It proves her talent isn’t defined by an arm, but by her fearless heart and deep respect for the ocean’s raw power.

Commit 100% or eat it! Hesitation is your worst enemy. You have to fully send it, knowing you might crash hard. Embrace the slams—they’re part of the learning curve. Start small, aiming for little air reverses or straight airs before trying rotations. Celebrate the tiny progress, like getting slightly airborne. It’s a mental game as much as physical. Remember, every surfer you admire ate it a thousand times before making it look easy. Just go for it!

Go for a leash that’s roughly the same length as your board, maybe a touch longer for bigger, more powerful waves. A shortboard around 6ft needs a 6ft leash. If you’re charging overhead waves, adding 1-2 feet gives you more separation from your board during heavy wipeouts. Too long, and it becomes a tangly mess; too short, and it can snap or yank your board back at you. It’s about matching the leash to your wave energy and board size for a smooth, safe session.

Surf Lingo & Slang

Dawn patrol is that first light mission, paddling out as the sun cracks the horizon. It’s often the cleanest, glassiest conditions with the lightest winds. Plus, you get the waves before the crowd shows up, sharing the lineup with only the most dedicated crew. It’s a peaceful, almost spiritual way to start the day. You’ll score empty peaks and that unbeatable feeling of being in the ocean as the world wakes up. Nothing beats trading sleep for a few silky morning barrels.

These are the watermen and women who stare down mountains of water. Legends like Greg Noll at Makaha in the ’60s showed it could be done. Then Laird Hamilton, Darrick Doerner, and Buzzy Kerbox pioneered tow-in surfing at Jaws, unlocking waves once thought unrideable. Today, chargers like Kai Lenny and Justine Dupont push the limits further with incredible water safety and tech. It’s a special breed, mixing insane courage, ocean knowledge, and athleticism to ride the planet’s most powerful energy.

Chill in the lot, rinse off, and watch the sunset over the pier. Grab a classic burger from the Malibu Farm Cafe or a smoothie from the legendary Malibu Kitchen. Cruise up the PCH to check the other breaks. Maybe hit the Malibu Country Mart for some people-watching. The key is to soak in that easy, coastal vibe. It’s about the whole experience—not just the waves, but the feeling of being part of a timeless scene.