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A sluggish pop-up usually means your feet are searching for the board. Your hands are the culprit! Don’t push your chest up too high—it creates a wobbly bridge. Instead, think “explosive snap.“ As you feel the wave lift you, push your hands down into the deck and immediately spring your feet underneath you in one motion. Practice this on land every day. Tape an outline of your board on the floor and drill it. Muscle memory is key. A quick, clean pop-up means you’re riding, not pearling.

The man is a shaper’s dream and rides everything! He’s famously connected to Channel Islands, rocking models like the CI “Flyer” and the “Fred Rubble” for high-performance waves. But his quiver is deep. He’ll switch to a fish for smaller days, charge Pipe on a step-up gun, or even ride an alaia for the pure feel. His board choice is all about the conditions and his intuitive connection to the craft. He’s deeply involved in design, constantly tweaking rocker, foil, and fin setups to find that perfect blend of speed, drive, and responsiveness.

You’re paying for one-on-one artistry and a unique creation. A shaper isn’t just pushing a button; they’re hand-shaping a blank based on hours of knowledge. Premium materials are often used, and the labor is intensive and skilled. You’re investing in a piece of functional art built solely for you. Think of it as buying a tailored suit versus something off the rack. The performance gain and personal connection make it worth every penny for many.

You can get wet any time, but autumn (Sept-Nov) is pure gold—warmish water, consistent swells, and fewer crowds. Winter delivers the most powerful waves for experienced surfers, but it’s seriously cold and demanding. Spring sees cleaner conditions return, and summer offers smaller waves, longer days, and the chance to trunk it if you’re hardy (or mad!). Swell is consistent year-round, so there’s always something to ride.