The Surfer's Diet: Fueling the Stoke

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Surf Travel Adventures

How do I eat on a budget without losing energy for sessions?

Hit the local markets and grocery stores, not the tourist restaurants. Load up on fresh, local fruits, veggies, and proteins to make your own poke bowls or sandwiches. A cooler bag for beach days is key. In many spots, you’ll find amazing, cheap grinds from family-run sodas or food trucks. Staying somewhere with a kitchen is a major win. Hydrate with water, not expensive drinks. Fueling smart keeps you in the water longer.

Any advice for staying stoked during flat spells?

Embrace the adventure! Flat days are for exploring—rent a moto, hike to a viewpoint, or just chill in a hammock with a good book. Use the time to maintain your gear, study the coastline for new spots, or practice pop-ups on the sand. Connect with the local culture beyond the surf; learn some phrases, try the food. The journey isn’t just about the waves, it’s about the whole experience. The swell will come.

How can we respect local surf culture as visitors?

Do your homework. Understand the break’s pecking order and don’t drop in. A smile and being humble go far. Support the local economy—rent boards from the shop, eat at the cafes, maybe take a lesson from a local guide. Keep the beach clean. Teach your groms about etiquette, too. Showing respect for the spot and the locals ensures good vibes for everyone and sets a great example.

Surfboard Evolution

What’s the point of a mid-length, like a 7’0” funboard?

The mid-length is the ultimate “one-board quiver” for many. It bridges the gap between a longboard’s easy paddling and a shortboard’s maneuverability. You get into waves early, have plenty of foam for stability, but can still throw it around a bit more than a log. It’s the perfect board if you’re coming back after a break, surfing a new spot, or just want a versatile craft that handles from 2-foot to overhead. Pure, adaptable fun.

Why did the longboard era eventually end?

The shortboard revolution, man! Around 1967-70, shapers like Bob McTavish and George Greenough started chopping feet off the nose and tail, creating shorter, lighter, more maneuverable “v-bottom” boards. Surfers like Nat Young showed you could attack the wave with radical turns instead of just trimming. This new equipment unlocked a whole new, aggressive approach. Almost overnight, the log seemed obsolete as everyone wanted to “shortboard” and rip. Performance took a massive leap forward, changing everything.

What was the “Redwood Plank” era?

After the Hawaiian revival, surf hit California, but they lacked the perfect Hawaiian woods. So, early 20th-century shapers used what they had: redwood. These planks were crazy heavy—like 100+ pounds, bro! They were often just milled lumber, shaped a bit, and sealed with varnish. Riding one was a workout just to get it to the water. This clunky era was a crucial bridge between ancient craft and the lighter materials that would soon revolutionize everything.