The Shortboard Revolution

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Surfboard Evolution

Don’t just grab your hero’s dims! Start with a higher-volume, user-friendly shape—often called a “fish” or a “groveler.“ You want enough foam to paddle and catch waves easily as you learn the more dynamic style. Talk to your local shaper or shop guru. It’s about finding the right balance of float, rocker, and rail shape to match your skill level and local breaks.

Give it some juice! Shortboards thrive in good, chest-high-plus waves with some push and a defined pocket. They need a wave with enough power to generate speed for turns. While you can ride a shorty in small stuff (if it’s a groveler shape), they truly come alive in hollow, barreling waves or clean, peeling walls where you can unleash your full repertoire of carves and snaps.

The move away from heavy polyurethane foam and fiberglass was key. Lighter blanks and the introduction of the thruster fin setup (three fins) by Simon Anderson in the early 80s gave shortboards insane drive and control. These materials and designs gave surfers the confidence to push into heavier, barreling waves and come out flying, allowing for the progressive, aerial surfing we see today.

Surfboard Evolution

With less foam under your feet, you had to pump for speed and use the wave’s energy. The shorty allowed for explosive top-turns, deep bottom turns, and critical snaps in the pocket. Surfing moved from a graceful glide to a dynamic, athletic dance on the most powerful part of the wave. It unlocked a whole new bag of tricks, emphasizing radical turns and tube-riding over classic, cross-stepping elegance.

Bob McTavish, with his “V-bottom,“ and Dick Brewer, shaping for pros on the North Shore, were pivotal shapers. Surfers like Midget Farrelly, Wayne Lynch, and most famously, Nat Young (winning the ’66 World Contest on “Sam”) proved these new sticks worked. In Hawaii, Gerry Lopez mastered the pipeline on shorter, more maneuverable boards. These pioneers showed the world what was possible when you traded stability for high-performance.

It split the tribe for a while. Traditional longboarders saw it as a fad, while the new crew were the radical, performance-obsessed rebels. It made surfing more athletic and less about the soulful glide. Magazines started featuring spray-flinging action shots over nose-riding. Ultimately, it created two distinct disciplines, but the shortboard’s influence made all of surfing more dynamic and progressive.