Surf Lifestyle & Travel

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What's The Deal With...?

Surf History & Legends

What’s the deal with the soundtracks in these films?

The soundtrack is the heartbeat of the flick! In the 60s and 70s, it was all about instrumental guitar—think Dick Dale or The Ventures—that matched the glide and rhythm of surfing. Later, punk and alternative rock fueled the counter-culture vibe. The music sets the entire mood, making a bottom turn feel epic or a barrel feel mystical. A great surf film score gets stuck in your head and instantly transports you back to the feeling of the film every time you hear it.

Are epoxy boards better than traditional polyurethane?

It’s not strictly “better,“ just different! Epoxy boards (EPS foam with epoxy resin) are lighter, stronger, and more buoyant—great for smaller waves or lighter riders. Traditional PU/PE boards (polyurethane foam with polyester resin) have a more familiar, flexier feel that many pros prefer for powerful surf; they can feel more “alive” underfoot. Epoxy is durable for travel, while PU can be easier to repair. It’s a personal preference thing, like choosing your favorite wax scent.

What is “rocker” and why does it matter?

Rocker is the banana-like curve from nose to tail. More rocker means a board is more maneuverable and better for steep, hollow waves—it turns quicker but can be slower. Less rocker (a flatter board) means more speed and glide, perfect for softer, mushy waves. It’s a crucial design element that affects how the board fits in the curve of the wave. Getting the right rocker for your local break is key to matching your equipment to the ocean’s mood.

Legendary Surf Spots

I’m a beginner. Can I learn to surf in Bundoran?

Absolutely, mate! Bundoran is a brilliant launchpad. The main beach, Tullan Strand, offers a forgiving sandy bottom and less intense waves to find your feet. There are multiple surf schools right on the beach with expert local instructors who know the tides and rips like the back of their hand. They’ll get you suited up in warm gear and have you standing in no time. The key is to start on the beach breaks before even thinking about the reef setups.

Why is having a safety team so crucial out there?

In big wave zones, your safety team is your lifeline. When you eat it on a set wave, the impact can be brutal, holding you down in the washing machine. Jet Skis and skilled drivers are essential for quick pickups, rescues, and towing into waves if that’s the call. Onshore spotters with binoculars keep eyes on every surfer in the lineup. This isn’t a solo mission; it’s a coordinated operation where every person has a role to ensure everyone gets back to the channel, and back to the beach, in one piece.

Are there other breaks nearby if I want to mix it up?

For sure! If you’re feeling adventurous and have a 4x4, you can explore. Just north, you might find a punchier beach break called “Shipwrecks.“ Further up the coast towards Todos Santos, there are a few more secluded spots that work on different swells. Always ask a local shop for the latest beta before venturing out—conditions and access change. Los Cerritos is the consistent hub, but Baja is all about exploration if you’re down for a mission.