Surf Lifestyle & Travel

It depends on the wave and your style! Pulling in, standing tall, is classic for more open barrels, giving you control and vision. The pig-dog (grabbing rail, crouching low) is for super hollow, pitching waves where you need to get low and compact fast to fit under a tight lip. It helps with stability and staying in the critical section. Neither is “better.“ It’s about what the wave demands and what feels right. Try both and see what gets you deeper and more in control on different days.

You’re likely too far forward on your stick or trying to catch waves that are already too steep. Scoot back a bit on your board to keep the nose from pearling. More importantly, start paddling earlier, the moment you feel the wave lift your tail. You need momentum to match the wave’s speed. Think “paddle hard, then pop” rather than just hoping the wave will do the work for you. It’s a timing and positioning game that every surfer has to dial in.

A kook is a beginner who, often unknowingly, breaks surf etiquette and looks awkward in the water. A ripper is a skilled surfer who makes advanced maneuvers look easy, respects the lineup, and truly understands the ocean. It’s not just about skill level; it’s about attitude and respect. Everyone starts as a kook, but the goal is to progress towards being a competent, respectful surfer—whether you ever become a full-blown ripper or not.

A closeout is when the wave breaks all at once, left and right, leaving you no open face to ride. It’s a dead end. A makeable section is a part of the wave that’s just about to pitch, giving you a chance to maneuver past it, either with a bottom turn or a bit of speed. Reading this is key. You want to aim for waves that peel, not ones that slam shut all at once.