Surf History & Legends

It’s not just about riding waves; it’s a full immersion. It’s prioritizing dawn patrol, having saltwater in your veins, and your schedule revolving around tides and swell. It’s worn-out wetsuits, ding repair in the garage, and road trips with boards on the roof. It’s a deep respect for the ocean, a tight-knit crew, and a mindset that values experiences over possessions. The ocean is your church, and every session is a form of meditation.

Practice on land, every day. Muscle memory is key. Lie on your stomach, hands by your ribs, and in one smooth motion, push up and spring your feet under you. Avoid the “kook crawl” where you bring a knee up first. The motion should be a quick, fluid “pop,“ not a slow climb. On the water, look where you want to go (down the line, not at your feet) as you come up. A clean, fast pop-up sets you up for everything that follows on the wave face.

Your weight is the starting point. Heavier surfers need more foam to float them properly. Skill is the next big factor. A beginner needs extra volume (a “foamy” or big funboard) for stability and forgiveness while learning. As your pop-up gets solid and you start turning, you can drop down in size. An intermediate surfer on a shortboard might ride a volume roughly equal to their weight in kilograms, plus a few extra liters.

The shortboard revolution, man! Around 1967-70, shapers like Bob McTavish and George Greenough started chopping feet off the nose and tail, creating shorter, lighter, more maneuverable “v-bottom” boards. Surfers like Nat Young showed you could attack the wave with radical turns instead of just trimming. This new equipment unlocked a whole new, aggressive approach. Almost overnight, the log seemed obsolete as everyone wanted to “shortboard” and rip. Performance took a massive leap forward, changing everything.